>>COSMO'S RUSSIAN DIARY - WEEK 4



DAY 22- Friday, October 18, 2002

DAY OFF IN VOLGOGRAD - BOЛГOГPAД


Ah, a great nights' sleep. Comfortable bed, nice room. And another full day off. No show, no traveling. Shopping, sightseeing, relaxing.

I went for breakfast at 10; met Achim, Ingo and Malte, Robbie and Peter joined us shortly thereafter.

Everybody seemed to be having a problem with their guts- a slight case of the runs seemed to be the common trait. I am surprised that it has taken this long, considering the state of some of the food we have been eating. It is bad enough having diarrhea anywhere, but particularly annoying when you don't have proper toilets, especially without seats and paper. Needless to say, no one was happy about this latest predicament, but we knew everything would come out okay. No pun intended.

We chatted about the day, there is a shopping center right across the street. Lunch at 1, dinner at 6:30. I have a bit of work to catch up on, so I planned to go shopping later.

I went back to my room, got some computer work out of the way, checked my emails and showered. I went down to the restaurant at 1 PM.

Eventually, everybody showed up and we ate lunch. It was another unusual assortment of food, but okay. The old soldiers came in and sat at a table near ours. A few of us wanted to go out, so Irina arranged a van for us. Robbie and Peter wanted to go shopping; I wanted to go to the war memorial. We met at 2:30 and headed for a market. We were taken to a rather large one, with the usual clothing, shoes, hats, etc. We walked around for a bit, Robbie bought a vest, Andreas bought this silly hat, but I gotta say, it did look good on him!

We were swarmed again for autographs. We obliged the fans again. We're getting used to it, even though we look nothing like the band.

We left there and headed back to the hotel. We dropped everyone off except Achim and myself, we wanted to go sightseeing.

First stop was this building we had heard about, the last building left standing after the Battle of Stalingrad. It was surrounded by all this old armor and 3 WWII airplanes. I walked around, trying to imagine what had happened here 60 years ago. It was very heavy, seeing all the damage, imagining the fighting, the cold, and the death. Across the street was part of a wall, and our driver told us that the wall was what remained of a house where a doctor held of the Nazi Army for a month. It was incredible to think of what happened at this very spot.

We loaded back up and headed to this huge monument, Mother Russia, much like America's Statue of Liberty. This thing is huge! Nearly 250 feet tall, on a hill that is 300 feet high. This particular hill was the scene of another particularly fierce and bloody battle, where many Russians and Germans had died. Near the monument was a memorial to those killed in this battle. Talk about heavy- you walked into this memorial, you could the smell the death, feel the souls of those who fought and died. There was a sculpture of a huge hand holding a torch in the center, and the walls had plaque after plaque listing all of the names of the Russians who died here. The memorial was circular, and had a ramp that circled down to the bottom where the hand and torch sat. There were two soldiers standing guard in front of the hand. My timing was incredible- the changing of the guard happened the minute I got to the bottom. I watched them leave, and then stood there in silence, taking in this moment, feeling the spirits, saddened by the amount of death that had happened here, but also glad that they had this memorial, so no one would forget them.

This is why I love to tour, to go to other places, to see and touch history. I have read about the Battle of Stalingrad, but here I was, right where it happened. It was no longer a story in a book, a photograph, it was here, and I was touching it, smelling it, feeling it. Since I was a child, I have read about other places, other people and cultures, read the history of the world, and always wanted to travel, as reading the pages in a book were never enough. I am so fortunate to have seen so many places over the years, and I have yet to tire of the travel. I have a voracious appetite for seeing new places, for touching history, to experience other peoples' way of life.

I am the luckiest man in the world.

I walked back up the rotunda and something on the wall caught my eye. The wall was covered with broken pieces of clear colored glass, reds, oranges and yellows, set in a mosaic pattern. All the glass pieces were broken into different shapes and made to fit, but there was one, and only one piece that was actually cut to shape- it was a Red Star, about 4 inches high, and completely blended in with the rest of the mosaic, but somehow, it had caught my eye. I think the builder would have been pleased.

We walked back up to the monument, and the band had just arrived and were doing a photo shoot in front. I took some photos of them as well. They headed to the memorial and we got in the van to leave.

We went back to the hotel; I went over to the shopping center across the street. Peter had told me that there was a model shop with many airplane kits inside. I would have to check it out.

Achim, Irina and I walked over to this 3-story shopping mall, more like a department store, but instead of having separate departments, it had all these little shops that sold different things, much like an American mall, but all open, again, like a department store. This is the common way of shopping in Russia, as it was in the old Soviet Union. Just now, they actually have stuff on the shelves.

We went to the second floor and there was one model shop. I saw a few models that I didn't have (I have over a thousand plastic model kits, mostly aircraft at home), so I looked through them and ended up buying two kits. I went to another store that had many more to choose from, I thought my head was going to spin off! I ended up only buying one because I was out of cash. I would come back later today or tomorrow morning after I hit the bank.

I headed back to the hotel with my loot. I opened up my models, they were great. One of these days, I'll spend some time at home working on my models. I'll be busy when I retire, that's for sure!

We met for dinner at 6:30. We all had a very nice time, the food was great. I had this fantastic dish of sturgeon and salmon in a white sauce with salmon caviar. I should've taken a photo, it was culinary art and it tasted great.

I headed back to the room and worked on the diary, checked emails and did some other work. Achim came by with a disk of all the photos he had taken so far on the tour, so I spent the rest of the evening going through those and putting them on the diary Website. I finally went to bed around 1 AM. It had been a great day.




DAY 23- Saturday, October 19, 2002

SHOW IN VOLGOGRAD – BOЛГOГPAД


I awoke early, and got back to work on the diary. While I really enjoy doing this, I do have a real job while I am here in Russia, so I have to concentrate on that first, and then work on the diary. I don't need to be online to work on it, which is great, but it does take some time to write it and format it and all the photos for the Web. I hope that you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoy writing it.

I took a shower and went down for breakfast at 9:45. I wanted some time to go back to the model shops to buy some more models. None of the crew were there yet. I made some coffee and sat down. I went to the buffet, it was worse than yesterday- horrible! Old looking and dried out food. Meatballs with rice that looked like golfballs (probably worked like golfballs as well), cabbage rolls, the same funky fish salads that were obviously from last nights' leftovers. Yech! Fish salad? For breakfast!? I wasn't going to subject my stomach or bowels to another day like the last one. I settled on a ham and cheese roll with my coffee.

I sat and started eating. A Russian guy came over from another table with pen and paper looking for an autograph. I obliged him. Another guy from the same table came over for the same thing. Again, I obliged him. They went back and drank vodka.

Achim appeared and joined me. He got coffee and decided against eating at all. The two guys from the other table appeared again and actually sat down at our table. They were obviously drunk. But then the majority of Russians I have dealt with have been drunk. These guys stared talking to us in Russian. We tried to explain that we did not understand them and that we did not speak Russian, to no avail. They would not leave us alone. Achim, trying to be nice, started telling them off, and finally, a waitress came over and shooed them away. I started to leave and they offered me vodka. I waved them off and made a quick exit.

I went downstairs and asked a lady at the front desk what time the shopping center next door opened, as it was Saturday. She said that she didn't think it was open. Well, I believe nothing that I am told by anyone over here, so I had to go check for myself. It was indeed open! This is another Russian trait- giving you an answer even if they don't know the right one. Instead of simply saying "I don't know" when asked about something that they do not know about, they feel that they have to give you an answer, regardless if they really know the answer. I think that if she had said yes, and it would've been closed, I would of come back and been angry with her. So, the easy choice for her was to say it was closed and hoped that I had gone back to my room and forgotten about it. Well, I don't give up that easily, and thankfully I had checked.

So, I went back to the model shops and bought several more models, like I really needed more, but hey, I had to have them!

I went back to the hotel and got my briefcase, computer and the rest of my models and headed downstairs. We made our way to the venue; here was another crumbling old Soviet hockey arena. Next door we saw what looked like a huge flea market, but we were told that they sold nothing but fruit and vegetables. Robbie and Peter doubted this, and planned to check it out later anyway.

We entered the building and were led to our glorious Production Office/Crew Room, which still had dust from the 50's. At least it was a bit better than the threadbare dressing rooms that the band had. They actually had to find curtains for Klaus' dressing room, and they took the carpet out of the Production Office for his room.

There was no restaurant in the building, and no place around the arena to go and eat, so Robbie had them bring in something for lunch. See, in the states, it would be easy, order pizza or something like that. But not here in Russia. We actually had a "chef" bring in food, well; he at least had the tall white hat on. Anyway, he brought a plastic container with sliced ham and cheese, lettuce, cucumber and tomato; and a bag of bread rolls. He also brought several containers of what looked like chicken noodle soup. Francis tried it. Yech. Ham and cheese sandwiches for everybody. Like breakfast.

Everything seemed good today; the drum riser was fine, the lights, and sound- all fine. Everybody was actually done by around 2 PM. Nice for a change.

The band came in for soundcheck; the Queen of Rock girls arrived for their rehearsal.

There were some beautiful girls, once again, for tonight's contest; I picked the winner from the start- very pretty. The one with a little meat on her usually wins, especially if the meat is in the breast and thigh department. The really skinny girls never win, which is not the American way, but since everybody is so thin here, a weight is a bonus, like in the old days when overweight meant wealth. Let me elaborate for a minute here- I'm not talking FAT, I'm talking curvy, as opposed to waiflike.

The show was great. It was sold out, probably 6 or 7 thousand fans. The shows seem to be getting better, the fans incredible. These people are starved for live music, especially western bands. And the Scorpions seem to be their favorite. They went wild for "Wind of Change," singing every word, their voices deafening. Klaus was in his glory, leading this chorus of thousands.

Load out was fast, we headed back to the hotel to pack, have dinner and check out. The Russian support staff was in the banquet room when we arrived, drinking vodka by the glassful. I mean large, water glass full. We ate, listening to them singing. They were a sight. But we had to fly tonight- it was going to be a wild flight! We left for the airport at 1:30 AM, arrived at 2. Once again, we went through the ludicrous security check, x-ray and metal detector. I mean, we were setting off the metal detector, but they just waved us through. Job creation. It wasn't like we were going to hijack or bomb our own plane. And as far as crashing it into any buildings? There were no buildings of any significance within the range of our little jet anyway. I get confused every time we go through this process, but as I said previously, job creation. Doesn't mean they have to do their job, but as least they have one. Keeps the unemployment rate down, I guess.

Again, we went to a waiting room, building waiting rooms must be another "job creation." We waited and finally Robbie asked, "Why couldn't we just get on the plane?" Someone said we would just have to wait, and Robbie said, "Yes, but at least we can sleep and not have to get up until we land!" Common sense took over and we boarded.

Shortly thereafter, the Russians boarded, but our fears about them being loud and raucous were alleviated, as they were all so drunk, they just passed out. I did the same, but I was simply tired, it was already 3 AM.




DAY 24- Sunday, October 20, 2002

FLY TO AND SHOW IN NIZHINY NOVGOROD - HИЖHИЙ HOBГOPOД


I awoke as the landing gear was extended. It was clear and I could see many lights down below as we approached the airport. We touched down and taxied to the terminal building. It was a little after 5 AM, and still pitch black. Once again, it was the eerie dark airport with the yellow sodium lights blanketing the airfield. We taxied between several parked Yak-40's, which is an older and smaller plane than ours, and pulled up in front of the terminal. We got off our aircraft- it was windy and cold- about 25 degrees. We loaded into vans and headed to the hotel.

Along the way, we passed a McDonald's. At least we knew we could eat here. Another couple of blocks and we were at the hotel. A nice hotel. We got our keys and headed up to our rooms. I was in bed and fast asleep by 6 AM. I awoke again around 9, and actually felt great. I took a shower and went down for breakfast. Again, Achim was already there. Great minds think alike. Breakfast was good, fried eggs, toast, and bacon and tomato juice. What a change from cabbage rolls, fish salad and hot dogs.

We left for the venue at 10:30. It was a 20-minute drive through the city. We arrived at another old and decrepit building, but it looked worse outside than it actually was inside. There was a flea market nearby.

Everything, amazingly, seemed to be in order. The drum riser, while not perfect, would suffice quite nicely. The lights and sound were up and in their proper place. A welcome surprise.

The day was pretty uneventful. We decided to have McDonald's for lunch. And for dinner. And tomorrow for breakfast. And maybe for lunch before we got on the flight. There were actually 5 McDonald's in Nizhny Novgorod. I planned on eating at every one of them. So did Robbie. We just had to come up with one more meal. I am sure we will.

Peter, being a diabetic, can't eat at McDonald's, so we still have to make sure he gets food. Today, it came from the venue. Nobody could figure out what it was, especially Peter. Poor Peter.

I finally figured out how to get Russian letters on the Website, hence all the new Russian words that you see. I will at least put the city names in their proper language and alphabet so you can see what I was writing about previously.

Robbie and Peter went to the flea market and were back in under 5 minutes. Absolutely nothing worth looking at. I focused my miniscule lighting system. We ate lunch. It was great. Big Mac's, Chicken McNugget's, Fish Mac's, fries; it was delicious. We were in heaven. See how easy it is to make us happy?

The band arrived at 5 for soundcheck. They weren't happy with the dressing rooms, either, but we have no choice here.

Again, the Queen of Rock happened, with some very beautiful girls. The only problem I have with the contest is that most of these girls seem to be model types. Not that there is anything wrong with that, I just feel they should have more "ordinary" girls, if you know what I mean. However, I still enjoy the contests!

The band hit the stage to one crazy crowd. There was a barricade out in front of the mix position. In front of the mix were seats. Behind the mix was festival seating, no seats, just standing room only. Only there was no room. It was completely packed. The show started and these fans were just crazy! I wished they were up near the front for the band to see. The crowd actually started pushing toward the mix, pushing into the console road cases, and the soldiers/security started beating on these people! I mean, they weren't pushing on purpose; it was just a big crowd. Even in the seated area, when someone went into the center aisle to dance, the soldiers started pushing and hitting them. I haven't seen anything like this since I was here with AC/DC in 1991. These soldiers started looking for excuses to beat on these fans. Finally, it calmed down and everybody just enjoyed the show.

I was amazed, watching the audience. Young and old alike, rocking to the Scorpions. I was really amazed at the younger ones, singing every word. Better yet, sitting on my riser was a woman who I figured to be in her late 50's, rocking out and playing air guitar! I later found out that she was 60, and while she was a fan of the Scorpions, she said her son, who had died 12 years ago at age 33, was their biggest fan. It was very touching. She had an old album from the mid-seventies, so I took it back and had the band sign it. She was really cool. 60 years old!

This crowd was quite incredible. Once again, when they started Wind of Change, the crowd just roared. This was their song. They knew every word, this song meant so much to so many of them. They were not just singing it, they were feeling it. This song, for many of them was part of their life. In some cases, it was their life. No other band has written a song which means so much to these people, a song written by free people about freedom, but in terms that people who have only recently tasted freedom can understand. Something that most of us take for granted. On some nights, it literally brings tears to my eyes, seeing these people so moved by a song, by such a great band. It is an amazing feeling being a part of something that brings people such happiness, such togetherness.

The show was great, probably the most receptive audience of the tour, even despite the soldiers.

After load out, we headed back to the hotel. Several of decided to eat at McDonald's (now there's a surprise) and a couple of others wanted to eat in the hotel. It ended up being only me Robbie and myself. We went to McDonald's and brought it back to our rooms. I ate, went online and went to bed shortly thereafter, it was nearly 2 AM. Freedom is a good thing.




DAY 25- Monday, October 21, 2002

FLY TO UFA - УФА


What a great nights' sleep. Solid. Comfortable. About time. I got out of bed at 10. I opened the shades; it had snowed a couple of inches last night. It looked cold.

I went down for breakfast, met Robbie, Peter and Achim. Considering the weather, and the fact that everybody was tired, no one was going anywhere today, until we left for the airport, which was supposed to be at 2:30. Fat chance.

I went back to my room, showered, packed and headed downstairs at 2:00 to drop off my luggage. I attempted to pay my incidentals, they claimed that I had watched two movies and wanted to charge me 30 bucks! First of all, I hadn't watched 2 movies, hell, we'd only been in the hotel a few hours anyway. But their system claimed I had, so after arguing they said they would drop one movie off- I said no, they finally agreed and took both of them off. What a scam.

We were still waiting to leave for the airport when Robbie commandeered our driver and van and said that we wanted to go to McDonald's. That was a great idea, because the alternative was to either wait in the hotel lobby for God knows how long, or go to the airport under the same circumstances. So, off to McDonald's we went!

We parked in front and half of us went in. We ordered everything, it was wonderful. We took photos, milled about, we just had a blast. Imagine, 5 grown men lollygagging around McDonald's, like kids at Playland. Please give us a break; we have already been in this hellhole now for nearly 4 weeks. At this point, we are easily entertained.

We all piled back into the van and headed for the airport. We opened our food and happily munched away.

We arrived at the airport and headed into the terminal. There wasn't much there, a couple of kiosks with the usual instant coffee and other painfully boring accoutrements. We didn't have enough time to taste the wares, anyway.

We went through the usual pointless security and x-ray check, and of course, went to a room with nothing there and were told to wait. What else is new?

There was a staircase, we went up it, and there was a bar and a duty-free store, both closed. Surprise. We went back downstairs to wait.

So, we waited. And waited. Finally, they opened the door and we boarded the bus and went out to our jet. There was a hulk of some old Russian turboprop pushed of the side of the tarmac. That made you feel good. Could imagine seeing something like this in the states? We walked up the rear ladder, as usual into the cabin, it's funny, at a certain point going up the stairs, and you catch the first whiff. It is not really a bad smell, just a smell, in this case, I call it "the Russian jet smell," and it has no real description, it is just the smell of the aircraft. It is almost kind of nice, I guess because it is a familiar odor. I am not particularly fond of it, just comfortable with it.

You know, I realized that I have yet to write about our aircraft, besides a few sentences here and there. So, please allow me to elaborate a bit on our beautiful aircraft: Again, our jet is a Yakolev Yak-42D, or in Russian, a ЯКОЛЕВ ЯК-42Д.

This type of aircraft was designed in 1983. Our particular jet was manufactured in 1984, so it is an 18-year-old jet. And it shows, believe me. The interior is pretty beat up; the exterior has the paint peeled down to the primer in most places. The toilet is a disgusting closet, with, of course, that old toilet smell.

In order to get all of our gear in, they had to remove the back 5 or 6 rows of seats. Then, on top of all that goes our luggage. Originally, they had put cargo netting over the band gear and luggage, now; they just pile it up and hope for the best. I mean, if we crashed, the luggage would be the least of my worries; however, if we ever encounter any serious turbulence, look out- Marshall cabinets and Samsonites' will be flying down the aisle.

There are two cabins, "First Class" and "Coach Class." They are pretty much the same, except for a bit more legroom in First. In the back, the first five rows have been designated Scorpions crew, and behind that, the Russian support staff. There are about 90 seats altogether, so there is more that enough room. Francis and I have row 10, seats D, E and F, and we also use row 9, seats D, E and F, that way, we can really stretch out. I sit next to the window, Francis on the aisle. Irina sits behind us in the middle seat, that's where I get all my Russian lessons.

The usual flight starts with the crew boarding first, then the band, and then they put all the luggage in. They shut the hatches and we head to the runway and take off. Shortly after take off, the cabin crew comes through with drinks, fruit juices, water and soda. Then, they come through with a meal, which, as you have seen before, is not very appetizing. They serve coffee and tea, and then pick up the litter. They used to serve alcohol, but, without going into detail, things started getting out of hand, so the booze went away for a while; although the Russian crew have never been without their vodka.

The pilot seems to be great, but in order to be a pilot over here, you have to be good, because a pilot can never trust anything except his own plane; think about it- we can't get a drum riser built, you think any pilot is going to trust that the local airport is going to have the Instrument Landing System on? Yeah, right.

Everytime we land, all the Russians applaud. I have seen that before, but mainly in Latin countries. They applaud God, I think, for bringing them down safely. I think the Russians applaud God, the pilot and sheer luck. Some of these planes I see over here I wouldn't want to drive down the runway in, much less fly!

Anyway, that's our plane. We love it, so far, it has taken us over 12,000 miles. When we leave Russia for the Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic states, we have another plane, it is supposed to be a Yak-40P. It is a smaller, tri-engine jet airliner, more like a large corporate jet. Unfortunately, these planes are really old, some dating back to the 60's. Let's hope ours is one of the newer jets.

Anyway, back to the diary. The flight to Ufa was about 2 hours. We lost 2 hours on the flight, so now we were 10 ahead of EST. It was dark when we landed. There was a big and beautiful full moon rising as we taxied up to the terminal.

We got off of the plane, headed to our vans and waited. No one knew what vehicle we were supposed to take. Finally, somebody sorted it out and we left. It was a 30-minute drive to the hotel. The city seemed to be alive, with people everywhere. Surprising, as it was Monday night. Our hotel, even though it was close to the city center, was in a compound all it's own, surrounded by trees and a big fence. We were warned not to go out by ourselves, as this city had a very large Muslim population, and they were concerned that we, especially the 3 Americans among us, may be targets for any Islamic terrorists. We planned not to go out by ourselves. We planned not to go out at all.

We checked into the hotel and went to our rooms. Nice hotel, no complaints at all. It was a bit warm in the room, but I opened the windows. I turned of the radiator.

We met for dinner on the second floor. There were the usual salads. We ordered beers and looked at the menu. I ordered caviar and baked sturgeon. Caviar was great, sturgeon was atrocious. We had a nice time, Robbie argued with the local promoter about who was paying for the beers. Finally, the promoter relented and agreed to pay for the beer. Hooray!

After dinner, I went to the bar. Valentin was there, at a table with three lovely ladies. I was introduced- Oxsana, Mililana and Regina. Beautiful, all three. One spoke a little English, the other two didn't. Thanks to Valentin, we managed a conversation. I had a nice time. Regina was a dark-haired beauty. We started talking. Having an interpreter is great, but it's hard to get intimate. Valentin left us to our own devices. We didn't really manage to say much, but there are other ways to communicate besides talking.

We had a great night.

I like Russian girls, I really do.




DAY 26- Tuesday, October 22, 2002

SHOW IN UFA - УФА


I awoke to the sound of trucks driving by the street below. I tried to block the sound out, but to no avail. The room was still hot. I finally just got out of bed and went online to check my emails. I packed, as we are flying to Samara tonight after the show.

I showered and headed down to breakfast. Robbie and Peter were there. They actually had poached eggs- well, hard-boiled poached eggs. Still, they were good. I also had sausage and mushrooms; I had to pass on the boiled potatoes. Achim joined us.

We left for the gig at 10:30. It was a 20-minute ride. Another crumbling city, old buildings, lack of any maintenance anywhere. I also noticed that everything seemed to be shoddily built. Even the mortar between the bricks in buildings that were probably built in the 60's was washing out. What did they use? Mashed potatoes?

We arrived at the venue. Another ice hockey arena. Yes- old. Yes- decrepit. Nothing changes here.

We made our way to the stage- the drum riser was there, but incomplete. What a surprise. The stage was much smaller than usual. The sound was only half up. The sound and lighting company here leave a lot to be desired. The gear is complete crap, and there isn't enough of it. Look at the "road cases" for the sound cabinets. The miniature lighting rig was up and in place, though. Lars and I hung the backdrop and sign. And waited.

The rest of the drum riser arrived. It was in four pieces, specially made for us. It seems that they couldn't find one carpentry shop to do the whole riser, so they had to farm it out to another company.

The spots, again, were on a 4-foot riser behind the sound console. Below the stage. Robbie had told them last night not to put them there, but they did anyway. And, again, they were the 575-watt spots. They said that they didn't have 1200-watt spots. Funny, they had them several shows ago. I told them that if they did not find 1200-watt spotlights, there would be no show tonight. We shall see what happens.

Meanwhile, Francis worked on the drum riser. Several other changes were in the process of being made. We all went back into the Production Office to wait. Things were going from bad to worse. We would not- could not do a show with these unacceptable conditions. I mean, again, we were shooting a live Internet broadcast.

My lighting crew chief, Vlad, came to the Production Office and asked to see the rider. Robbie pulled out the rider that said the spots are to be 1200-watt lights. Vlad said that they are 1200's- that it is just a number. I said, no, that signifies the size of the bulb. He disagreed, and said that it was the length of the spotlight! Now I'd had it- regardless of the number on the spotlight, I had actually requested 2500-watt spotlights, and said that I would settle for 1200-watt spotlights at the smaller venues, so it was academic what the number on the spotlight signified, the rider requested 1200-watt spotlights!! I was livid at this point. It is not like I was asking for something for me, this was a request for the show- this is what we needed! These people just can't seem to get it through their thick skulls that we are just the crew trying to do our jobs properly, despite the substandard labor and equipment we are having to deal with. The band want to come in and do the best show they possibly can, and we are limited to what the promoter provides us. It is a very frustrating situation, which I am sure you have gathered by now. We are not asking for champagne and caviar, Diet Coke and cheeseburgers will be just fine, but they can't even provide that.

Meanwhile, they started taking the pallets up off the ice and placing them one by one on top of the spot riser, trying to raise it up, 4 inches at a time. I mean, the riser at is sits now is 4 feet high, it needs to be at least 9 or 10 feet high, so they were planning on doing this 4 inches at a time! Unstable and unsafe- not to mention that the sheer weight of that many pallets would surely collapse the existing riser. And, to make matters worse, they were taking the pallets up of the ice- what were the going to do- place all of the seats on the ice? Am I missing something here? ? ? ? ?

I decided to focus my tiny rig, it doesn't take that long considering how little there is up there to focus. This lighting company doesn't have truss ladders, so they have to lower each truss in so the guys can get on it to focus. And since the all the band gear is in place, they can lower the trusses low enough, so they get them as low as the can get them, and then angle them so they can climb up one side. It is all rather frightening and insane. I am to the point that I get everybody on our crew away then they're doing this rather risky procedure.

Anyway, focus goes rather quickly, thank God, and then I went to have lunch. Once again it was this table full of inedible "food" all sitting and waiting for our arrival. This time it was a plateful of sardines and other canned fish. Russian canned fish. Yum.

I had ordered beef fried with carrots and onion. Why? Got me. It was a mistake, but anything I would've ordered would have been a mistake. I got a piece of beef- well, meat- I have no idea what cut it was- it was horrible. Horrible. Horrible. I ate the rice. I went back to work.

They had built platforms using the "ice pallets" on either side of the mix position. They looked like they would work, but I surely wouldn't get on them.

The band came for soundcheck. The Queen of Rock happened shortly thereafter. The Scorpions went on, and, again, the day ended on a great note. The audience was great, the band as well. There weren't many people behind me, but the ones that were there had a great time. Even the police had a good time. Every single person sang "Wind of Change."

We loaded out and headed back to the hotel. We went down to dinner. It wasn't as good as last night and took forever for everything to arrive.

I went back to my room and packed. We were supposed to leave at 1:30 AM, but we didn't get out of there until 2.

It was a long drive to the airport. We went through security and then to another room, to wait, before we finally went up some stairs to "Passport Control" which was closed, and then into another waiting room. We spied a little cantina/bar at the end, and it looked open. Next-door was a gift shop, which was closed. We sat in the cantina, ordered everything from coffee to soda to beer. I walked back into the waiting room, and to my surprise, the gift shop was open, although there wasn't much to buy. The usual Russian dolls, other trinkets, the Koran in Russian. I bought post cards.

Meanwhile, everybody was comfortable in the cantina, here comes some lady and tells us it's time to board. Now. Everybody looked at her like she was crazy. She stormed off and said, in Russian, that if we didn't board now, it would be another hour. We boarded.

This was the shortest flight of the Russian tour, less than an hour, plus we gained an hour when we arrived into Samara. Now we were 9 hours ahead of EST.

Upon our arrival, we loaded up on a bus and were driven out of the airport to the front of the terminal, were we got into two small American vans, I think Windstars. Very tight for 10 of us anyway. Irina had to wait. We were told the hotel was 40 minutes away, but someone else said it was much closer. It was only 10 minutes.

The hotel was actually a hunting lodge- even the name- Russian Hunting- denoted that. We squeezed out of the vans and went into reception. We were given our room keys- we each had bungalows. We walked around the corner- it looked like army barracks. I had bungalow "B." I opened the door and was immediately hit with this stench- like an open sewer. Everybody said they smelled the same in their rooms. I left the door open and went inside. It was okay, actually; besides the smell; the bathroom was larger than some of the rooms I have had previously. The bed looked comfortable. I opened the window and turned off the radiator. There was a fan, I turned it on. I was beat and wasn't going to wait for my luggage; I'd just get it in the morning. I crawled into bed, shut off the light and passed out. It was 5:30 AM.




DAY 27- Wednesday, October 23, 2002

SHOW IN SAMARA - CAMAPA


I awoke at 10:26, 4 minutes before the alarm went off. I could smell the open sewer again. It was cold in the room, I could see my breath. I got up and turned the radiator back on. I looked out the window of my "barrack" and it was snowing. It looked cold. I opened the door to see if maybe my suitcase was there- it was cold, and no, there was no suitcase. I called the reception, they didn't speak English. They connected me to someone who sounded like they had just been awakened by the phone- they had, it was Valentin. I told him that I was trying to call reception for my suitcase; he said he would call for me. A few minutes later, my suitcase appeared, brought by a guy who looked like he was in an army uniform. The bellman.

I took a shower, got dressed and went out. Achim and Andreas were leaving their barrack as well. We walked to the reception- no one else was there. I walked over to the restaurant- Robbie and Peter were eating breakfast. The restaurant looked like a hunting lodge- log cabin style, with mounted animals all over the walls. I sat and ordered coffee. Francis appeared and sat, then Malte. My coffee arrived, as did two fried eggs. We ate, and then loaded up into the vans and left for the venue. However, we were short one, but the other van didn't know it, but we drove off anyway. A couple of miles down the road, Robbie's van pulled over and said that we had left Ingo. No, really? We headed back to the hotel to get him. Each day gets more annoying here. We picked Ingo up, he said, "You can leave me at the hotel anytime, but never leave me at the gig."

It was a long drive to the venue, 40 minutes. It was a scenic drive, however, once again, a city in complete disrepair. Small houses that looked like they were built straight out of time, 200 years ago. Log cabins everywhere. I've seen larger doghouses in the states.

We passed this large hill; the driver told Irina that it was nicknamed "Refrigerator Mountain" because during the cold war, they had stockpiled food here in case of nuclear attack. He said that they could eat for 5 years on the food that was stored inside the caves. I think we already are- they've been saving it for the dressing rooms and crew room.

We passed a McDonald's sign as we went through the city, even that didn't cheer anyone up.

We arrived at the venue, and yes, yet another Soviet-era hockey arena. The usual stench. The usual state of disrepair. While we are not surprised anymore, it is getting tiring. Nobody cared about shopping. We are all just tired. We are all annoyed. We get into the vans in the morning now and someone inevitably says, "I wonder what surprises they will have for us today?"

We walked into the Crew Room. It seemed okay. Over to Production- okay as well, but connected to Robbie's office is the infirmary, with an older Russian nurse, and all these archaic looking medical devices. Frightening. We'll be staying out of there.

We walked to the stage- first problem- you guessed it- the drum riser. It is 4 feet high! The band will kill themselves trying to climb up that thing. Also, there were no proper areas for Peter, Malte and Ingo to set up their tech areas.

We went away while they attempted to get things in order. Everybody just wants to sleep. Or at least do our gigs. All this waiting is so tiring; at least when you are busy, you can manage to stay awake. These 5 days have been rough, comparable to the start of the tour, and we still have to load out and fly to Rostov-on-Don tonight after the show. We are all looking forward to these upcoming 2 days off; however, we're being told that the hotel in Rostov is the worst of the tour. Figures. I hope they're wrong.

This was another hockey arena. I always go check out the Zamboni, you know, every ice hockey arena has one, it is a vehicle that smoothes out the ice to keep an even surface. So far, every arena has had a "real" Zamboni, so I thought I was out of luck finding a "Russian" Zamboni- well, I was until now. Check out these photos!

I set up my computer in the Crew Room. Two cats came in and joined us. They made me miss my cats. And home. I gave them some milk. They curled up under my chair and went to sleep. Several of the crew were happy to pet them. The cats were cool.

The toilets had seat on them, which was a good thing, but here is something I have said before- and here is a photo to prove that I am not making it up- they use strips of old newspaper for toilet paper- I kid you not. Talk about recycling! Not to mention that you have something to read while you sit.

Time came to order lunch- should I take a chance on the local catering? They didn't even have borscht on the menu. The usual again- chicken, fish, meat. Naw, McDonald's will do the trick.

We finally got to the stage and started load in, but it was already 3 PM by this time. Robbie had called Fieldmarshall Gehrke and said that they would not be able to do a sound check.

Lunch arrived, Royal Cheeseburger, Fish Mac and fries. Better the devil you know…

After lunch, I focused. The band arrived and got to do soundcheck anyway. Queen of Rock was good, some more beautiful girls; these seemed a bit more ordinary. I liked that.

The audience was a bit more subdued that normal. I was so tired during the show. I think everybody is burned out. We are flying to Rostov after the show; I wish I were just going back to my room and to bed. Oh, well, two days off.

The show went well. The audience got better toward the end of the show. This was the last show with this lighting and sound company, named Aleef. They were great, hard working and generally good guys. After we loaded out our gear, we went into the arena and all of us did a toast with vodka. We're gonna miss all these people.

We headed back to the hotel, 40 minutes away. We got back by 11 PM and went straight to the restaurant.

As we were sitting there drinking beer, one of the Russians said something about terrorists in Moscow. We turned up the volume on the TV and tuned it to BBC- nearly a thousand people had been taken hostage in a theater. You know all this by now. The Russians were visibly upset, several of them frantically calling home on their cellphones. Vladimir, our promoter, found out that the VP in charge of Public Relations for SAV, the main promoter group, was in the theater at the time and was now a hostage. Really small world. Really close to home. We gathered around the television for a while, it reminded me of September 11th. Made all of think about things, it is a dangerous world out here, no matter where you go.

I had some borscht, another beer and then packed. We left for the airport at 3 AM. It was a short drive.

We got out of the vans and walked into the terminal- it was as busy as I have ever seen an airport- and it was 3:00 in the morning! Everybody in the crew milled about, buying sodas, water, candy and cigarettes. We went through security- this was real security, so they searched us completely. I mean, we weren't on a commercial flight, but we were still going through the public areas.

We got to the other side, and sat. Everybody is just beat. There was a bar, a few ordered beers, others coffee. There was a gift shop, but it remained closed.

We made our way out to the bus, and got on the plane for the last time. This was a longer flight- over 2 hours. The band arrived and shortly thereafter, we were roaring down the runway. We would gain another hour on this flight, and again, we were 8 hours ahead of EST- Moscow time. The Russians had a bit of a party in the seats behind us, most of our crew just slept, as did I. Not deeply, I just napped. I was comfortable.

We were flying through thick clouds and a bit of turbulence. You could hardly see the navigational lights on the wingtip. Flaps down. Landing gear down. Ailerons out. Suddenly, we broke out of the clouds, 500 feet above the ground. You could see city lights. I could see the dark Don River winding through the city, like a black serpent. There was a huge tanker sailing up the river, it all looked like a model from the airplane.

We went back into the clouds again. I looked for the ground. I could see lights through holes in the clouds, then nothing but clouds. We finally broke out of the clouds at we crossed the runway threshold. We touched down for the last time. It was a good landing, again, the Russian applauded, but this time it seemed a little louder. I think some of us were applauding as well, we had survived. Our little jet took care of us. I pulled out the armrest ashtray and slid it into my pocket as a little souvenir of my journey. I plan to have it mounted on a piece of wood with a plaque. Corny, yes, but life is made up of memories and mementos.

We all sat on the plane a little longer than normal. They power hadn't been connected, so it was still dark in the plane. We were all tired, but I think everybody was a little melancholy as well. Eventually, we all gathered our stuff and made our way down the rear stairs. There were Tu-154's on either side of us. The ROL film crew were filming the band coming down the front stairs. This they did several times, I guess they were getting footage. We sat in the bus and waited, I tried to take photos of all these Russian airliners, but it was so dark, it was hard to get a good shot.

Finally, we left for the terminal. We loaded into a van and headed for the hotel.

20 minutes later, we pulled up in front of another Soviet style hotel. So much for two comfortable days off. Everybody was just beat and disgusted. We got our keys and apprehensively headed up to our rooms. I got into the elevator and pushed 15. It said "Executive Floor." That made me feel a little better. I got of on 15, strolled down the corridor, it looked okay, but still had that "Soviet" feel about it. No "Floor Monitor" here, however. I got to my room, opened the door, and there it was- Executive, yes, but still Soviet style. Dark, depressing…Soviet. All my windows had been taped shut. I opened them anyway; it was hot and stuffy in my room. I was sorely disappointed. A tiny desk, with the phone across the room. I lay on my bed; it felt like a stack of cardboard boxes. The sheets were like sandpaper. I turned on the television. All the Russian stations had something about the hostage situation in Moscow on. I found BBC, but no CNN. Same story, the Russian hostage crisis. It still felt strange, being in Russia while this is happening.

I was tired, but wanted my luggage now, I didn't want to have to get up later and go and get it, so I headed downstairs. There was still no luggage in the lobby. I saw Cliff and his wife, Marina walking to the bar. I followed them down. Cliff Gauntlett is the man in charge of Russia On Line (ROL) and is a great person. This guy is like a legend. He is British, but hardly has an accent. He used to be in the military, he flew Hawker Harriers and has been in Russia for nearly 15 years now heading up ROL. He is also one of the guys who created AutoCAD. The guy rocks. Marina, his wife, is Russian, and is just a stunning beauty, and seems as sweet as can be. It has been a pleasure to work with him, especially around all these idiots and liars.

Cliff told me the luggage was on its way, so I decided to have a beer with him and Marina while I waited. The bar was nice, they had the TV on, and it was about the hostage crisis. Nothing had changed.

I had a beer, we just chatted, and then I went up to the lobby. The luggage was there, and there were all these army guys delivering it. They seem to have the army guys doing everything! But the thought of these same guys in Moscow, plotting and planning a hostage rescue was frightening to say the least. Somebody will forget the bullets, of the grenades, or something. As much trouble as we are having in this country, I thank God that I am not stuck in that theater waiting to be rescued.

I went back to my room, unpacked a few things, brushed my teeth and crawled into my sandpaper and cardboard box bed. It was 7:20 AM. I have been here four weeks. It seems like an eternity.




DAY 28- Thursday, October 24, 2002

DAY OFF IN ROSTOV-ON-DON - РОCTOB-HA-ДOHУ


I didn't sleep well at all. The bed was uncomfortable. It just sucks when you are so tired, but can't manage a good sleep. I crawled out of bed at 1:30 PM. I also hate sleeping the day away. I wish we would've just stayed in Samara and flown during the day. Oh well, no use complaining, I am here and awake. And two days off, I am happy about that.

I puttered around the room for a while, worked on my computer and the diary. I showered, or at least tried to shower- The water went from freezing to boiling in a matter of seconds. And to top it all off, there was no shower curtain, only a partial "door." I finally managed to wash my body without any serious scalding and stepped out of the shower- into 3 inches of water on the floor. It was also leaking out of the bathroom into the hallway in front of the door. Not a good way to start the day.

I met the rest of the crew downstairs for lunch at 3 PM. We drove through serious city traffic for about 30 minutes, before arriving at this restaurant in an alley. We went in and were led downstairs to what looked like a small dungeon. There was a table with chairs on one side and a bench on the other. The table had the prerequisite salads sitting there waiting for us. There was a wooden fake cured ham hanging in the corner, and a stuffed wild boar underneath the staircase. Very interesting to say the least. We all ordered beers, and Irina read us the menu. I had caviar and a steak. The norm. Safe.

It was Malte's birthday, we all toasted him and wished him the best. We decided that the best present we could get for him would be a ticket to Frankfurt. It seemed a great idea, but then we figured that he would have to wait, birthday or not.

The food was actually pretty good, despite the décor. This room would make a better S & M dungeon than a dining room. Maybe it was just that before, and maybe it will be again. I'll never know.

We left there and went back to the hotel. The ride back was a bit quicker. There was a CD store a block from the hotel, so several of us went down there. The CD's were only 60 Rubles a piece- 2 bucks. The majority of them were bootlegs, but you can't really tell, except for the occasional typo. I bought a few Russian Heavy Metal band CD's. I also found out that they sold Internet cards. So, I bought one of those and headed back to the room.

I logged on with no problem at all. You gotta be happy about that. I caught up on my emails and diary, and then the phone line went dead. Seems there are only so many lines in the hotel, and I lost my connection. Welcome to Russia.

Tomorrow is Matthias' birthday, and the powers that be had decided to have a bit of a party for him. Trouble was, they wanted to do something tonight. Since it wasn't really his birthday, they just decided to have a regular dinner, everyone invited. The crew knew what kind of fiasco that this could turn into, so a few opted not to go. We met in the lobby at 8:30, some went to McDonald's, and the rest of us went to the restaurant, which was the same one we had eaten in at lunch. I said that if they try to sit us downstairs in the dungeon again, I was going back to the hotel.

We arrived, and just as we all had suspected, they started to direct us downstairs. The band was all upstairs, as was the Russian support staff and the ROL film crew. I made a beeline for the bands table, and sat down at a table where Cliff and a few others were sitting. There were four chairs, perfect, as there were four of us. Eduard made us comfortable.

What a spread- I had been wishing for some lobsters, lo and behold, there they were on the table. Small lobsters, but lobster nonetheless. They also had salmon caviar, boy, did they have caviar, baked sturgeon, and they had made borscht with a dollop of sour cream, especially for me. We ordered beers and had a great time.

There was a house band that started playing, and about the third tune, they started playing Wind of Change. Klaus went up and they started all over again, with the rest of the Scorpions joining in. It was all pretty cool. Click here to see several photos.

We stayed a while longer, the jumped back in the van and headed back to the hotel. I went down to the hotel bar. I joined Irina, Dmitri, Valentin and Achim for a couple of beers. We compared room keys- me and the rest of the crew had magnetic key cards, whereas the Russian crew had the old style key and key fob. Their rooms matched their keys. We were lucky enough to be on the recently renovated floor. I retired to my room around 3 AM.




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