>>COSMO'S RUSSIAN DIARY - WEEK 5



DAY 29- Friday, October 25, 2002

DAY OFF IN ROSTOV-ON-DON – РОCTOB-HA-ДOHУ


I actually slept well for a change, especially considering the state of my bed.

I went down for breakfast at 10 AM to meet Achim. He wasn't there. I sat and ordered food, fried eggs, coffee. I ate, it was okay.

I went back up to my room and worked on my computer, wrote some postcards and jumped into my scalding/freezing shower, being a little more careful this time to keep as much water inside the tub, which I managed to do as there was only an inch of water on the floor when I got out this time.

We were supposed to go to lunch at 2 PM, we all met in the lobby- and waited. There was no one from the promoter, so eventually, we gave up and I went to the CD store again. When I got back, they wanted to take us to lunch, but we had a "photo shoot" with the band and Russian crew today at 3:30, so we didn't have enough time to go and get back by the shoot. So, I went back to my room for a bit.

We all met again at 3:30, originally we were told that we were going to some city location, like a large set of steps, but it was decided in the end to do it in one of the hotel conference rooms. How exciting.

We made our way to the second floor. There was a wedding reception in the ballroom next to our room. In the lobby, a Dixieland band was playing. It all seemed very strange. We all entered our conference room and they placed us in position against the wall. One by one, everybody arrived. Several shots were taken of our large group, all for posterity. After the photographers were happy, we left the room. On the way out, James went over to the Dixieland band and started playing each instrument- the trombone, the tuba and the drums. It was quite the impromptu performance- actually fantastic! James is quite the talented individual. It was a gas.

We made our way downstairs and decided to have dinner at 6:30. The big party that was planned for tonight didn't start until 11 PM. I went back up to my room for a little while.

We met at 6:30 and went to a different restaurant than the dungeon. This one was a little bistro, quite comfortable. We all had beers, ordered dinner and had a nice time. I ate shrimp, it was okay. We went back to the hotel and it was decided that we would all head to Matthias' birthday party at 11 PM.

We met in the lobby and headed to the party. It was being held in this large dance-club, the regular public was there, but they had the upstairs cordoned off for us. They had a spread laid out, but since we all had eaten already, nothing was eaten. Now the alcohol, that was a different story!

The party was a blast. Everybody was there. They had a "Cossack" show, two men and two women, dressed as Cossacks dancing and singing, it was pretty cool. They brought Matthias onto the stage downstairs, and he ended up singing "Happy Birthday" to himself- it was hilarious! The rest of the band joined him onstage, they played several songs, Wind of Change, Hurricane, Long Tall Sally and then they just jammed. They even wrote a new song- "Rostov on Don!" Everybody who could play drums played- Vladimir, Dimitri, James, and then Francis jumped on the set- and proceeded to pop the head of the snare- I mean this thing just exploded- he had to finish the set with the floor tom- it was quite a sight.

The crew all got ready to leave, and I started walking out with them, but I decided that I was having way too much fun, to hell with going to bed early, I was going to stay. Achim, Francis, Andreas and I stayed for more fun. And what fun we had! The beer and vodka were flowing like water. The vodka over here is like water, smooth and dangerous.

We all milled about, drinking and laughing, then a scantily clad girl arrived and started dancing on this platform with a strip bar-type brass pole on it. Then, several other scantily clad girls appeared and started dancing- suddenly our party had turned into a strip bar! Each took a turn on the brass pole, and the clothes started coming off- well, their tops, anyway. It was a Go-Go bar! We had a blast.

We left the bar and headed back to the hotel. We all congregated downstairs in the bar, where we had a few more beers and a couple of vodkas. I stumbled up to my room and went to bed at 5 AM. What a great night, a night that we all needed to let our hair down a bit, a night to blow off some built up steam.




DAY 30- Saturday, October 26, 2002

SHOW IN ROSTOV-ON-DON – РОCTOB-HA-ДOHУ


I awoke at 8:30, uncomfortable in my bed. I wanted to sleep another hour, but just couldn't. I didn't feel too bad, just a bit tired. I got up and went online- the phone line was working again.

I jumped in the shower, dressed and headed downstairs. I met Ingo on the way, and Achim was in the lobby. Robbie and Peter were having breakfast. We went outside, and again, there was only one van. We piled in and went to the gig.

We arrived at the venue. I'm not going to say it, you know already. Okay, then I will- Old Soviet hockey arena. We went in and walked to the stage. Lights were up, but there was no sound. No cabinets, no speakers, no nothing. As a matter of fact, the truck wasn't even here yet, and nobody knew when it was coming or even where it was.

Lars and I proceeded to put up the sign and the Stardrop. Eventually, the sound turned up. All work continued.

It was freezing in the venue, but blazing in the Production Office/crew room. Typical.

There was a television in the office, this tiny, old black and white set. There were only Russian channels on it, but we could see that there was news on the hostage crisis in Moscow. It seems that the crisis was over- the army had stormed the theater, and reports said that over 200 people had been killed! We were sure that one of the bombs had gone off. They had all this gruesome footage of dead bodies, which was made even more surreal by the black and white television. It didn't look like an explosion, however. We would find out more later.

This was our last show in Russia. It was also the last show with the Russian crew. We were happy to be leaving Russia, but also going to miss many of the new friends we had made. As always, it was bittersweet.

Outside the Production Office was a freezer full of plastic liter soda bottles filled with water, which had become ice, as it was a freezer. I thought they had left them in there by accident and forgot about it. Shortly thereafter, I heard these guys hammering something, they were near the freezer. I walked over, and to my complete surprise, they were making ice cubes! Seriously! They were peeling the plastic away from the ice and hammering the bottle shapes into chunks to use for the stage coolers. I have never seen anything like this. I mean, this is how they made ice in the dark ages, isn't it? I am still in shock just thinking about it. Yuri Gagarin, God bless you!

The band came in for soundcheck, and Vladimir got his dream come true- he got to play with the Scorpions on their stage on James' kit. He was in heaven.

Tonight's Queen of Rock was great, some stunning looking girls, but the outfits were the best. Check out these photos for one of my favorite Queen of Rock shows.

The show was okay, once again, my tiny lighting rig, I was very happy that this was the last show with Lightmaster. The crowd was a bit subdued in the beginning, but as usual, woke up toward the middle of the show. By the encore, they had been rocked into a frenzy.

During load out, I was told that we could not leave any personal belongings in the gear, as we were crossing the Ukrainian border and they were real hard asses about it. So, I had to dig out all my stuff, my spare bag and all those models and drag them back to the hotel and to the train. What a pain!

We gathered all of our belongings and left for the hotel, Robbie and Peter stayed behind to load the truck. After I got to the hotel, I realized that I had left a bag in the Production Office with some clothes and toiletries, so I spent 30 minutes trying to get in touch with Robbie, Peter or Irina. I finally reached Irina, and she said that she would grab it. When they got back to the hotel, Robbie said that someone had stolen everything that was in the Production Office while there were loading the truck. Fortunately, nothing of any real value went, but it was still quite an annoyance and a fine note to leave Russia on.

I found out that many people who had died in the Moscow theater siege had been poisoned by the gas that the army had used to "put the hostage takers to sleep." All the Russians were in shock. 117 people had died, 2 by the hostages and 115 from the gas! And to make matters worse, the army wouldn't tell the hospital what kind of gas they had used, so they doctors didn't know how to treat it. The majority of the hostages that did survive were still in the hospital, many in critical or serious condition. More were surely going to die. While I and most of the Russians I have spoken to agree with the army's decision to storm the theater, their method left a lot to be desired. As I said before, I am glad that I was not in that theater waiting to be rescued. We did find out that Vladimir's VP had survived and was in the hospital.

We met in the lobby at midnight and headed for the train station. It was supposed to be a trip similar to the one we took from Perm to Ekaterinburg, two train cars connected to a regularly scheduled train.

We arrived at the station, but the driver didn't know where to go. To be honest, I can't figure out how anybody knows where to go in this city as all the roads look like they are all being reconstructed.

We pulled up to a barricade, and then all the bands cars came right up behind us, not knowing that we were lost. So, all the drivers got out to discuss the situation. That is how everything seems to happen here in Russia, there is always a big discussion, with the Russians jabbering in Russian and smoking cigarettes. Even the simplest problem meets with this type of meeting. Here we were, obviously not able to go forward, and they were discussing what we should do. Finally, our driver backed up through the mass of Mercedes' behind us, drove back up the road, around the corner, over to another entrance road, and finally, finally, we were in near the train station- 30 feet from where we were 5 minutes ago! 30 feet! By this time, the band had all decided to walk the 30 feet, so they met up with us as we got out of our van. Ludicrous.

We headed into the terminal, and then to the platform. There were several kiosks open, everybody bought beer, potato chips and other snacks. We sat and waited, and then somebody said we had to move to another platform, so we all walked directly across the tracks to the next platform.

We waited about 30 minutes, and in the meantime, we said our goodbyes to the Russian crewmembers that we knew we weren't going to see anymore. Saying goodbye is always difficult, but more so when you have spent so much time with someone in such close quarters and in such emotional turmoil. I was really going to miss Irina; She had become such a good friend and confidant to so many of us on the crew. We had all fallen in love with her. I know that one day, I will see her again.

We boarded the train, I got into my compartment, dumped all my luggage and cracked open a lukewarm beer. We left shortly thereafter, and Rudolf came to my compartment and we talked about Russia, the good and bad, and also about the upcoming US tour in 2003, which as of right now, seems a decade away.

Andreas came by and we had another beer. After a bit, they headed back to their respective compartments.

I made my bunk up and closed the door about 2 AM. We were gaining an hour going to the Ukraine, and we also gained an hour putting the clocks back for Daylight Savings Time. I was beat; it had been a long few days.

I slept on and off. The train stopped for what seemed an eternity and the started again. I fell back to sleep.

I woke up again. We had stopped- I looked at the clock- it was a little after 7. I could hear voices in the hallway. We were at the Ukrainian border. A customs agent came to my compartment shortly thereafter and asked for my passport. I gave it to him. He couldn't seem to find my Ukrainian Visa. I took the passport back, found it and gave it back to him. He nodded, stamped it and gave it back to me. He headed to the next compartment. I laid back down and fell back to sleep.




DAY 31- Sunday, October 27, 2002

TRAVEL TO AND SHOW IN KARKHOV, UKRAINE – XAPЬKOB, УКPAИHA


I woke up again at 10 AM. We were moving along at a pretty good speed. I opened my shade- rolling countryside, farms, and pastures. We were in the Ukraine. I got dressed and went out of my compartment.

This train car was almost exactly the same as the train car from Perm to Ekaterinburg. The bathrooms are frightening, but the compartments are comfortable, even they do like they're out of the 1940's.

I went to visit Robbie and Peter. They were drinking coffee. When the train attendant returned, he made me a cup. I sat and drank it with Robbie and Peter. Each train car has an old hot water heater, a kettle if you will. It looks dangerous, but Peter wasn't scared of it.

We were scheduled to arrive in Karkhov on time, maybe even 5 minutes early. We were in shock.

Ever since we have had difficulty getting food at the venues, Robbie has tried to make sure we have alternative food in the Production Office, namely different types of ramen noodles, you know, the ones in the Styrofoam cups and there is a type over here that is in a plastic dish. There are always a few left over after the gig, so everybody has been in the habit of taking a couple to have on hand in their rooms, or here for instance, as there was no other food on the train, and none of us were going to brave the I made a ramen soup for breakfast and packed all my belongings.

The train attendant let us know that we were 15 minutes out. We could see the Karkhov skyline as we approached the city.

We arrived at 11:50, right on schedule. Considering how many times we stopped, they must have allowed for all the delay. We also gained an hour going east and another hour for Daylight Savings Time. We were now 7 hours ahead of EST.

We got off the train and all got into a van. We drove 10 minutes to the hotel. Once again, the slowest elevators in the world. We were supposed to meet at 1 PM in the lobby. It was already 12:15, we wanted to take showers, plus we still had to wait for our luggage.

The hotel was next to a square with a huge statue of Lenin. He is still around everywhere you look. I think they're waiting until a generation dies to remove anymore of the statues. I still can't get used to seeing all the statues.

After waiting for three elevators loads, I finally got in and up to my room. It was okay, a small bed, but newly furnished and comfortable looking. I turned on the television, found BBC. I decided to go find my luggage.

I went to the elevator and waited. Finally, the elevator came but it was full of the bands luggage and two guys delivering it. I looked for mine, alas, wasn't there. I decided to walk down 15 flights of stairs as opposed to waiting for the elevator.

I found two of my bags, but not the third. I had hoped that they had already taken it upstairs. I inquired about laundry, reception said to give it to my floor chambermaid. I jumped in an elevator and went back up to my room. I opened my suitcase and got all my toiletries out. I got undressed and started to get into the shower; then I heard a knock at the door. Before I could get to it, the door opened, there was a guy with my bag and a maid behind him, and me, buck-assed naked. I said "spaceba," took my bag, closed the door and got into the shower.

Halfway through my shower, the power went out in my room. It was pitch black in the bathroom. I finished my shower in the dark, got dressed, and grabbed my laundry. I went to the maid's room and gave it to her. I hope she washes it, instead of taking it to a flea market and selling it.

I grabbed my models and headed downstairs. One of bands' bodyguards accompanied me down. I felt important.

We left for the venue at 1:20 PM. We passed several markets and wanted to go there instead of the venue. The markets would have to wait.

30 minutes later, we arrive at another old and crumbling Soviet arena. We entered the building and dropped all our stuff off in the crew room. It was nice, chilled soft drinks, snacks and a table set up for lunch. I went out to see the state of the lighting rig. I had a bad feeling as I approached the ramp at the back of the stage. My view was blocked, but as I walked up the ramp, my fears were realized- there was nothing hanging in the air. The only lights were bars of 3-par cans stacked upstage left. No trusses, no motors, nothing. The only thing that was here was the par cans. Once again, we had been lied to. The truck, we were told, would be here by 4 or so. Then, the truck would have to be unloaded, then the rigging points hung, the truss built, cabled, raised, the lamp bars hung, plugged in and gelled before being raised into position, the moving lights hung and cabled, then I would need to focus. Not to mention, this is the first time this rig has been put together, which always adds time to the load in. All this would take several hours, at least, and we had a 9 PM show. I don't think so.

We were told that the truck should be there by 4, maybe earlier. We decided we would stay and wait in case the truck did come early. Boy, were we stupid.

We ordered food; our choice was a restaurant, which was 30 minutes away, or McDonald's, which was only 15 minutes away. I decided to hedge my bet and ordered something from both places- borscht from the restaurant and a cheeseburger and Fish Mac from McDonald's. In the meantime, I worked on the US lighting plot. The backline crew proceeded to put up their gear.

Our food arrived and we all ate. It seems that the restaurant was great, and so was the McDonald's. I did okay on both counts.

We waited some more. 4:00 rolled around, still no truck. 5:00, nothing. 5:30, still nothing. We were then told that the truck was in Kharkov, and its arrival was imminent. Finally, at about 6:30, the main loading bay doors opened and the gear started rolling in. The sound and lighting crews hurriedly started putting the gear together; I showed them where I wanted the trusses. Since the drums and guitar amps were already in place, I had to hang my trusses around the band gear.

Suddenly, the arena filled up with fans- they had opened the doors! I was incredulous. The show was still over 4 hours away, yet all these people were in here with nothing to do but watch us work.

Slowly, at a snails pace, the lighting rig took shape and soon, the trusses were all hanging above the stage. I prefocused all the lights from the deck, as I knew that I would not have the time to focus once everything as in the air.

The crowd was chanting by this time, cheering and I knew it was only a matter of time before the natives would get restless, especially since they were drinking.

The upstage truss seemed to sit at an angle for an eternity, and then the crew started working on one of the hoists. Great. Now a major problem- the lighting truss couldn't be raised into place without that motor. I watched, frustrated, as they attempted to repair the chain motor. Finally, it was repaired and the trusses were all up in the air.

I went out front to program the show. Alas, the system had not even been patched. I started patching myself, as the lighting crew chief was helping Lars get the moving light desk patched and programmed. I realized that I had not yet spoken to the spotlight operators about the show tonight. The spots were located on a deck above me; I yelled at them to come down- they were members of my lighting crew. I told him whom I wanted the four spots on- this is when he informed me that they could only get two of the four spots working. It was at this point I threw my arms up in the air and announced that I was leaving. I reconsidered and told him to go and tell Robbie this wonderful bit of news. What else could go wrong tonight?

He left and I got back to work on the desk. I finally got the desk patched and started to program the show. Then the house lights went out. Great, I had not yet written a single cue, did not focus a single light, was down to two spotlights and now the houselights are out and Achim started the intro tape. Fortunately, Lars had managed to program something in his console, and I hurriedly wrote a couple of cues to at least get started. More than once I was prepared to just walk out of there. This was the worst show of my career, bar none. That 90-minute set was an eternity. Each painful second creeped by. One of Lars' lights was broken and constantly in the wrong color. I finally went to the stage and unplugged it out of frustration. I had the two spots try and cover all four of the band, which was difficult at best. They couldn't even open the irises of the spots enough to cover two band members at a time. Frustrating is an understatement.

Finally, "Hurricane" came and went, and thankfully, that was the end of that fiasco, the worst show I have ever done. I went backstage after the show, completely deflated. It was nearly 2 AM. We loaded out and headed to a restaurant for an extremely late dinner. I didn't care what time it was, I just wanted a beer and something to eat. A few crew went back to the hotel. We went to this restaurant called "Camelot." It was Camelot. This place was incredible. The hostess was stunningly beautiful and couldn't do enough for us. Rudolf was there and had just finished eating. We ordered beers and they were there in seconds. We had ordered food earlier at the venue, and no sooner had we sat down, our food arrived. I had ordered borscht, hey, we were in the home of borscht now, the Ukrainians invented this stuff! It was fabulous. And yes, it came with a dollop of sour cream. You have read about me and the borscht for a long time now, yet I have failed to take a photo of it. Well, here, for your visual culinary pleasure, is a picture of borscht, prepared in the Ukrainian style. Enjoy!

I also had a steak, which was just as good. Everybody was pleased with the food. We had a couple of more beers and headed back to the hotel, it was nearly 4 AM. It had been a completely horrible day, but I think we would all agree, that the ending, in Camelot, helped us all get over it. I was in my bed at 4:30 and passed out. What a day. Thank God it was over.




DAY 32- Monday, October 28, 2002

TRAVEL TO DNEPROPETROVSK, UKRAINE – ДНЕПPOПETPOBCК, УКPAИHA


The morning came quickly, and I was still tired. I got up about 11 AM, headed down to get some money out of the machine to pay for my laundry. I came back upstairs and got my laundry from the maid. It was 20 bucks, but all clean and folded- and still damp. Oh well. At least I was set for the rest of the tour.

I went to the café on the 8th floor and had breakfast- coffee, orange juice and two fried eggs. No one else was in the café; it was quiet, with a nice view. I enjoyed the solitude.

Our bus was slated to leave at 2 PM. It was 200 kilometers to Dnepropetrovsk, and the roads were bad. And if that wasn't enough, it was raining. I packed and had my luggage downstairs at 1:30. We climbed on board and were on our way a little after 2 PM.

The roads were indeed horrible. All the roads over here are horrible. Add to that the fact that no vehicle has any shocks left makes for an extremely uncomfortable ride to say the least. This ride was he absolute worst. It took 5 hours to travel 200 kilometers. I tried to use my computer; I could not even use the mousepad because of the bumps. I felt beat up after this journey. The bathroom was broken and the seats were unbearable. Not only that, the bus leaked, so water was dripping on my feet, until I realized that they were wet. Too late.

We finally arrived about 7 PM, and to add insult to injury, the driver got lost. While we were waiting to get directions, Francis said he had to use the toilet, the driver said that the bathroom was broken and he would have to go outside. Isn't that a fine howdy-do? It's a good thing he only had to pee!

We finally made it to the hotel, but it was a different hotel than the one in our itinerary. Robbie was furious. He went in to check out the hotel- it was actually a four-star hotel, extremely nice. That was good, but we were all still annoyed that, A, no one told us that we had changed hotels, and B; we were in a different hotel than the band. Not that it wasn't a nice change, as the hotels with the band are always swarming with security and fans, but on the other hand, when I am in these potentially political hotbeds, I prefer to stay with the band in case anything would happen. My theory is, which lifeboat would they rescue first- the bands' or the crews'? I feel much safer with the band. In any case, I am not worried about anything happening here, but you never know.

We checked in, went to our rooms and we were going to meet in the lobby and have dinner in the hotel restaurant. I got to my room, flushed the toilet- no water. I found out that the water was out in this part of the city and may not be back on until morning. Now Robbie was really mad. To top that off, how were we going to eat in the hotel if the kitchen had no water? I mean, the cooks can't even wash their hands. So, we went out to a restaurant called the "Rock Café." Everything like a Hard Rock, without the Hard. We went inside- it only looked like a Hard Rock because of a few rock and roll memorabilia items on the wall. Carl Perkins was on the big screen TV. There were several tables set up- obviously the band were coming as well. We all sat down, kind of in disbelief- we were the only ones in here, and the staff was all around staring at us like we were monkeys at the zoo.

On the tables- you guessed- were salads. No telling how long they had been there, but a crust had started to form. The music from the sound system was so loud you couldn't hear yourself think. They turned it down. They sent one waitress around with a menu, even though they had 5 or 6 staff standing around. One table ordered. I went to the bar and ordered some beers. The waitress never turned up at another table. We waited. Finally, Robbie asked if everybody had ordered, we all said no. He raised some hell and all of the sudden the waitress was back, reading the menu to us. I ordered caviar and a steak. We sat and talked. We stared at each other. We watched Carl Perkins jam with George Harrison, the Stray Cats, Eric Clapton and other guitar heroes. We stared at each other some more. After an eternity, the caviar arrived- it was absolutely disgusting- it tasted old and dried out- just horrible. Our steaks arrived, thankfully they were not bad. Just as we finished, the band turned up. They sat and I warned them about the caviar. We visited for a few minutes and left. Some of the crew went back to the hotel; Robbie, Achim and I went to the gig.

Old Soviet hockey arena. Yes. Except the hockey team had a new arena, and they had left this one. Great. We were here.

The crew were loading in the lighting and sound. The carpeting on the stage was all bunched up by the cases that they had been rolling over it. The stage was in two sections and there was a 1-inch gap in the middle running cross stage, right where the band would trip over it. I told the lighting crew where I wanted my trusses. Robbie told them that the stage had to be leveled and the carpet would have to be straightened out. The drum riser, while there, was in the wrong place and two big. Robbie explained to them how it needed to be, and they said they would get fix it. They would fix all the problems tonight, ready for our arrival in the morning. Robbie wanted to see the dressing rooms, but they said that there was no one there with a key to open them up. Yeah, right. We left back for the hotel.

When we got back, we were told the water was on again. We were happy about that. We went into the bar, Ingo, Lars, Ulia and Sergei were there drinking beer, and we joined them. We all had a beer, and then the tap ran out. Figures. I finished my beer and went to my room. I went online for a while and hit the sack. What a day. What surprises will we have tomorrow?




DAY 33- Tuesday, October 29, 2002

SHOW IN DNEPROPETROVSK, UKRAINE – ДНЕПPOПETPOBCК, УКPAИHA


I got up about 9 AM. I checked my emails and then got into the shower. There was hardly any hot water, but I managed to get it going. I lathered my hair and was covered in soap. The shower stopped. I couldn't open my eyes because of the soap. I felt a little water coming out of the tap, I rinsed my eyes. There was not enough pressure to make it up the shower hose, though. I waited. This just figures. I waited. The water stopped completely. I waited. I finally got out of the shower and tried to call Robbie. Why Robbie? I haven't a clue. I picked up the rooming list and dialed his number. I got a busy signal. I figured he was on the phone yelling at the front desk. I dialed again. Still busy. I look at the number on the sheet- each room had the same number! Robbie was next door, so I left my room to go see him. Here I was, wrapped in a towel, lathered from head to toe walking down the hallway of this really posh hotel. The maids were afraid to come out of their room. I knocked on Robbie's door. No answer. Livid, I went back to my room and slammed the door. I went back into the bathroom and slammed that door. All this dirt fell down from the false ceiling onto the floor, the bathtub and me. Now I was REALLY pissed. Fortunately, there was a little water pressure now. I calmed down and rinsed the dirt in the tub down the drain. Yes, I said tub. I finally got a real bathtub as opposed to subminiature shower stall and I couldn't use it because there was no water. I got back into the tub, lay down, rinsed my hair in the drip out of the faucet and got out, dried off and started getting dressed. The phone rang- it was reception, wanting to know if I had a problem. Yes, I have a problem, I have no water. She said that they would send someone to repair it. I said it was a little late and slammed the phone down. I walked to the restaurant with the rooming list and laid it down in front or Robbie and said, "What idiot from the promoter is responsible for this screw-up?" I pointed to the same phone number for all the rooms. He looked at me like I was insane. I probably was. I walked back up to my room. Got my bag and came back down for breakfast. I had calmed down considerably. I ordered eggs and coffee. I ate quietly.

We left for the gig. We went in, and to our surprise, (how we can still continue to be surprised is beyond me), NOTHING had been done since we left here last night. The carpet was a wrinkled mess, the drum riser was unchanged and the gap in the stage was still there. Robbie just went off. It was just incredible that they had done nothing, and I don't think they had planned to do anything. I mean, the carpet was a joke. Did they seriously believe that the band could actually play on this surface? Robbie started yelling at the crew to get the drum riser off the stage so they could re-lay the carpet. So, they took the drum riser and moved it down to the front of the stage on the carpet we were trying to straighten! "OFF THE STAGE!" Robbie yelled. Oh, no, said the promoter, we have good idea. "NO- OFF THE STAGE!!" Finally, they started moving the drum riser on to the floor in front of the stage. Robbie had them roll up the carpet, take a piece from the back of the stage and place it in front. Now, to deal with the problem of the uneven gap in the stage. There were two sections of stage, on hydraulic lifts, but they could not seem to get them both the same level. So, they brought in several pieces of lumber and proceeded to fill the gap- but only succeeded in moving the lip, so they had to use a plane to shave off the excess wood. There were several ladies sweeping the carpet. They still use brooms here that look like they were made in 1532. Probably were. Even the mops, and I use that term extremely loosely, are archaic. They consist of a "T" shaped stick and a towel. The towel is rinsed in a bucket of water, wrung out, wrapped around the "T" end of the handle and then they mop. I mean, this is 2002, and I don't care where in the world we are, you would think that they would have a mop designed in this century here!

Anyway, Nobody could do anything until the stage and carpet were finished, our crew went into the crew room, everybody else milled about. Lars and I hung the sign and the backdrop, and then the local crew, while waiting, all got on the drum riser and took photos. I took this one, it was pretty funny. Finally, the backline was being placed onstage and the guys got to work. I leveled my trusses, and then my day from hell started.

The day was rapidly disappearing, and I had yet to focus, finish patching my console or program. This was still the same lighting company that I used in the horrible gig in Kharkov, and I had yet to program since that forgetful night. I started patching the desk so I could at least focus soon. My Stardrop has to be patched into whatever console I am using, and for some reason, it created quite a problem in this particular console. Without going into any detail with all the boring technical jargon, I will just say that two of my lighting crewmembers spent a great deal of time trying to make my Stardrop work, and I, very frustrated, sat behind them trying to tell them how to do it, but they knew a better way. Finally, I just threw a fit; they let me get in there and voila! It worked. Finally, I focused and then started to program. I had yet to eat, and it was already Queen of Rock time. Now, this Queen of Rock was very strange. The girls all came out wearing these 1950's style wedding dresses, all different colors; they each were introduced, walked across the stage and took these 1950's style poses. All very bizarre. Every time they would introduce another girl, they would all change their pose. They left the stage and then returned for the bikini contest. A winner was chosen and shortly thereafter, the Scorpions hit the stage. The show turned out rather good; it was great to have a decent lighting system with all the bells and whistles. It was just a pain to have to go through all I did during the day in order to make it all work. I felt as if I had won the war, but all my armies and country had been destroyed. I was happy it was over, though.

I made Bloody Marys again, they were well earned tonight. We went back to the hotel and were told we could eat in the hotel restaurant. I was happy about that, as I was starving. Most of us sat and ate, I had caviar and fish. It wasn't great, but it was filling. I went up to my room, checked my emails and went to bed. I have had three bad days in a row, I hope tomorrow will be a good one.




DAY 34- Wednesday, October 30, 2002

TRAVEL TO ODESSA, UKRAINE – OДЕCCA, УКPAИHA


I woke up early and went down for breakfast. I sat down with Peter. I ordered eggs, they brought them and they were nearly raw. They had these sausages that were horrendous. I drank coffee. I didn't eat. Here we go again.

I went back to my room, surfed the Internet, packed, showered and went downstairs. We were supposed to leave at noon for the airport, but there was only one van for all of our luggage and us. Robbie refused to leave until they had a luggage van there. We were told it would take 20 minutes. Great, I would go out for a walk.

Francis, Lars and I walked into the city. The streets were filled with gorgeous Ukrainian girls, mostly wearing skirts and those knee-high boots. I was in heaven. There are so many beautiful girls over here!

Ulia had told me that there was a store near the hotel named "Cosmo," but in Russian letters, "KOCMO." I found it and Lars took a photo of me next to my namesake. We turned around at that point and headed back to the hotel.

The bus arrived shortly after we got back; we loaded up and headed for the airport. We were told that we were supposed to get "VIP" treatment that they were just going to drive us directly to the plane. Recent history has told us to believe nothing that we hear, and we didn't believe it for a minute. Of course, we arrived at the airport, no VIP; we go out as normal and filed into the airport. Nothing much there, either, a little cantina again, selling everything from booze to candy. We saw our plane- boy, was it tiny. A Yak-40, with 28 seats. The band arrived, and we all just milled about waiting to board. Waiting. Waiting. Finally, we were allowed to go to another area, the "pre-boarding" area. We were told that there was not enough room on the tiny plane for our luggage, and it would have to be sent the 500 kilometers by truck. Great. We wouldn't see our luggage until early morning. Surprise!

We boarded our jet, squeezed into our seats, and then the ground crew and cranked the propeller to get it started. Only kidding! The pilot started the three jet engines and we taxied toward the runway. We turned onto the active and it seemed to take forever, but we were airborne. This plane has no flaps, no ailerons; even the wing is straight as opposed to swept back. Klaus went into the cockpit to watch the takeoff, problem was, he had no seat. When he returned, we all complimented him on his takeoff.

The flight was only an hour or so, we were served "food," you decided. This block of cheese they served us defies description. Poor Peter.

We were over the Black Sea. It certainly lived up to its name, the water sure looked black and foreboding. As we neared the coast, I could see the Odessa beaches. Beautiful! Maybe things would be better here, I prayed. Odessa used to be the Riviera of the old Soviet Union. So far, it looked great. I looked forward to being here for 3 days. I had a good feeling about things.

As we flew over the coast, really nice looking houses came into view. Hmm, there must be some money here. That was a good sign. However, as we got closer, we flew over the largest cemetery that I have ever seen.

We landed in Odessa, got off the plane and boarded our bus. The President of Moldavia was in town, so they had several of the roads blocked off, so the trip to the hotel took over an hour. The city, at first, was in terrible shape. Dirty, crumbling, broken, bad. We saw a guy building a new structure, hell, it already looked old and dilapidated! Then suddenly, as we got near the city center, it was like night and day. We felt as if we had entered Disneyland. We pulled up to our hotel- it was right on the harbor leading to the Black Sea. It was supposedly the nicest hotel in Odessa. We weren't so sure at first, but once we went inside, it was great. A little sterile, but hey, who's complaining. We got our keys and were told to come back down for dinner.

My room was great, with a view of the harbor. I dropped my hand luggage off and wondered when I would see my suitcase. I went downstairs to meet the rest of the crew for dinner.

We loaded back onto the bus and drove about 10 minutes. The city reminded me of Paris. We parked and were told that we had to walk a bit to get to the restaurant. We turned the corner and I would've sworn that we were on a street in either Paris or Marseilles. It was beautiful, and it was such a nice change from some of the cities that had recently been to in Russia.

We went to a restaurant called "Meat & Wine." Simple name. The atmosphere was great. The menus were in English. There were no salads waiting for us. Beers arrived quickly and we all ordered. Everything was fabulous. I had calamari, salad and a steak. Wonderful, everybody agreed. Such a nice change, good food, good atmosphere. How could it get batter than this? We were in heaven.

We left the restaurant and walked around the immediate vicinity for a few minutes. It was wonderful, lights in the trees, people happily walking around, taking in the atmosphere. Robbie and Peter bought Internet cards, but they ran out when I went to get one. Damn. I'll see if the hotel has any.

They had a van for our return trip; we jumped in headed back to the hotel. Upon my arrival, I asked the front desk about Internet cards, they said that they did not have them, but I could get online in the business center. I was happy about that. I went to my room and then Francis and I went to the Business Center. Francis went online; I was told I could get high-speed access using my laptop. I would do it later. I decided to go to the bar and have a beer.

The bar was on the third floor. I could see Achim and Andreas sitting there, along with a couple of other people. At the end of the bar, there was a girl sitting one stool away from Achim. I decided to sit in the empty stool. I sat, and this gorgeous blonde turned and looked at me. She was wearing a beige sweater with netting, revealing a bit of cleavage. Nice cleavage. She was also wearing a skirt with knee-high boots. I smiled at her and said hello.

She said hello. I asked her if she spoke English, she answered yes. I introduced myself. Her name was Olya, short for Olga (short, because in Russian, it is OЛЯ, as opposed to OЛГА). She was beautiful. Her English, while a bit broken, was quite good, I mean, we could converse with no problem, I just had to speak slowly. She knew enough to converse, but not so much, so it made it fun trying to figure out what we were saying. She was funny, sweet, pretty- I was having a blast with her. Talking, laughing, drinking. She told me about Odessa, about herself. I told her about the tour, about Florida, about me.

After the last several horrible days, this was wonderful. No gig talk, no problems, no fiascos. She was my Queen of Rock. All of the problems of the last few days slipped away… We had a wonderful evening… Today did turn out to be a great day...




DAY 35- Thursday, October 31, 2002

SHOW IN ODESSA, UKRAINE – OДЕCCA, УКPAИHA


I awoke with a smile on my face. I lay in bed, happy and comfortable. Life is good.

Happy Halloween!

I got up around 9, showered, went for breakfast and we left for the gig at 10:30.

The gig, again, was another Soviet hockey arena. Crumbling and old. Really old. This, like every other old Soviet hockey arena was dark and cold. They never have all the lights on in these buildings, so it dark and depressing. I know that they do it to save electricity, but they will never get over the stigma of being dull, drab and depressing unless they start turning on some lights and literally start brightening up peoples' lives!

Our crew room was this odd looking "Wedding Room," with horrible wallpaper and photos on the wall of wedding parties. They had an odd assortment of food, and a few drinks. In order to get to the stage, you had to go through this obstacle course, out the door, around the corner, down steps, through a prop room, another door, down this really dark corridor, around another corner, through these curtains, through this strange looking office in a hallway, up a set of stairs and there, finally, was the stage. You inevitably forgot something in the crew room, and had to make your way back through this maze. I cannot begin to tell you how many times everybody got lost looking for the crew room!

Technically onstage, everything was in order. The light were great, I focused early.

I had asked for 4 tickets for Olya, her sister and her friends to come to the show, and Virgis, our translator, came over and gave them to me. I asked him if they could be left at the box office, as I wasn't planning on meeting Olya before the show, and he said yes. Unfortunately, he left them there too late, as I found out later that Olya had come, but the tickets weren't there, so she thought I was unable to get them. I was very disappointed, as she was. Frustrating, as usual.

We were told that we had the same aircraft for the flight to Minsk, so we had the same problem with luggage. The solution was to truck it again, the problem, however, was the distance to Minsk- over a thousand kilometers. We would have to send our luggage a day early so we would have it when we got there. So, it was decided that we would have to have our bags packed and ready for pickup at 10 AM tomorrow morning. It sucked, but I'd rather have my luggage in Minsk, than have to wait for it. We would all just have to carry an overnight bag. The only other problem which may arise is customs in Belarus. We will see what happens.

The show was actually very good that night, the audience was crammed into this small area between the stage and these bleachers, boy, was it packed. The crowd was crazy and happily rocked to the Scorpions. I took several photos during the show; click here to see them.

I was anxious to get back to the hotel to see Olya, as at that time, I wasn't sure if she had made it or not. Load out went pretty quickly, and we were all supposed to go out for dinner afterwards, but the original restaurant was closed by the time we finished. The next idea was to go out with the band; most of us nixed that idea. I was happy to go back to the hotel, for reasons previously mentioned.

We ended up back at the hotel, I stopped in the 3rd floor bar- no Olya. I went up to the 19th floor bar, there she was. She told me about the ticket fiasco, and while she was disappointed about not seeing the show, she was happy to see me. I apologized and told her I felt the same. She had never seen a rock concert before. We would just have to do it in the future.

I sat, we had beers and vodka, and the rest of the crew came up and ate. We all visited for a while. It was another great night. A good day, a great show and here I was with Olya again. I was in heaven.




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